For anyone who pencils in their eyebrows every day, who spends a fortune on eyebrow makeup or is fed up of waking up in the morning with an eyebrow-free face, it is life-changing.
I trained with PhiBrows Academy, founded by Branko Babic, a course that is so thorough, completing 11 different levels on practice skin before working on models. PhiBrows use the very best pigments and are very innovative in research to be able to give the best results Advances in technique has made the entire permanent makeup industry more appealing.
More people than ever are seeking a stronger brow – and this is the most natural way of getting it. Eyebrows are so important – they frame the face, and microblading gives the most natural effect yet.
Eyebrows can give people a lot of confidence, and microblading addresses many issues such as over plucking, fine brows, hair loss due to cancer, alopecia and trichotillomania.
Measuring accurately the PhiBrows way, marks out each point of the brow from the beginning to the arch to the tail using a compass created by Branko Babic with the golden mean ratio.
Even when there are few hairs to start with the effect can be very natural. Sometimes the client wants something a little unrealistic, so it is important to show them what looks flattering for their face and bone structure.
Microblading uses a fine scalpel-type blade made up of tiny needles to apply the pigment, allowing the practitioner to create a natural-looking brow with ultra-fine micro lines that look like individual hairs.
The blade means the colour is implanted closer to the surface of the outer layer of the skin, meaning the strokes are crisp and fine.
The fine lines can be applied in the same direction of hair growth, resulting in an appearance that’s as close to a natural brow as it gets.
Microblading is for anyone who wants to enhance or reconstruct their brows. People who plucked out their brows in the 90s ‘til they never returned, those born with sparse eyebrows, people who have lost their brows through chemo, trichotillomania or alopecia, or simply those looking for a bolder shape.
Of course there are contra indications to microblading so a full consultation is carried out before booking and a patch test is done. This is extremely important.
I do not apply anaesthetic until I have completed the first pass of the eyebrow as it changes the skin structure. Once first pass in done anaesthetic is applied and works very quickly so that it is more or less pain free throughout. During the treatment you will feel a scraping sensation but it shouldn’t be particularly painful. More anaesthetic can be added during the treatment to further numb the area if necessary.
With this technique, because the pigment is placed in the epidermis (top layer of skin), you will not get the blue black look of tattooing. Phi pigments have now been developed with a mix of both iron oxide and synthetic so results are super natural and true to colour and heal really well. I always err on the side of caution and will use a lighter pigment if necessary if for example a client has no brows as it can be a shock for them,. Its important to match the natural brow hair colour and can always go a touch darker at the top up depending on healing results.
On the day of treatment the brows may look slightly red and the brow will look stronger and darker than expected. Strokes will look crisper but will settle over the next few days. Aftercare is so important and must be followed to achieve the correct healed results. PhiBrows have developed their own aftercare product call PhiCandy and this is applied for 7 days, 3-4 times a day to prevent crusting and aid skin healing. Also the skin can feel a little itchy around 4-5 days so the balm helps. They must not get wet for at least 7 days, so no vigorous exercise or water on the face. Brows will fade around 40% and shrink about 15% Skin must not be picked as this will cause uneven pigment...
After the first treatment you will need a second 6 weeks later to review the result and fill in any areas that need it. The brow will fade naturally over 12-18 months as the skin rejuvenates, at which time you will need a top-up treatment to retain the shape and colour. A colour top-up can be carried out every 6 months to maintain depth of tone.